Basecamp 103 – Part Seven

New Mexico to Arizona

Rock City State Park of New Mexico

On this cross-country trip, east to west, the state parks have turned out to be where we have found interesting, distinctive, but lesser recognized places. Today is no exception. En route from Las Cruces, New Mexico to Tucson, Arizona we turn off reliable I-10 for a 24-mile side trip to a park called Rock City State Park. It turns out to be worth every mile. We are still in New Mexico.

Rock City State Park of New Mexico

Rock City is a natural geologic feature that emerges from the flat seemingly endless desert landscape like a fortress. It is the remnant of a volcano that exploded 36 million years ago. At the self-serve entrance gate, we find a paper pad glued on a shelf. We pull off a form and fill it out in triplicate. One layer sticks on the car, another on the camper and a 3rd copy goes in an envelope with a $5 bill in a lock box. Then, we continue up a hill another 100 yards, to a small visitor center with a cheerful woman smiling to welcome us. “Just wander around wherever you want to go” she gleams, directing us gently to a curtained corner with a short video to watch as an orientation. “Please don’t park in a campsite,” she says quietly as she turns off to somewhere.

Rock City is a natural geologic feature

We spend a couple of hours wandering around on pathways through the maze of enormous stone shapes that look like cartoon characters. About 40 feet high, the rocks are like gentle giants, beautiful with soft weathered surfaces reflecting the strong sun. We see people at a distance. There’s a young couple romping over and around laughing and hopping about. Others are sitting outside their camper rigs. A few sites have full hookups; how do they get water here, I wonder? And there are other sites tucked among the rocks, really out of sight, for tents or rigs, natural niches for a sense of quiet in retreat. I wish we were staying longer. We keep lunch simple, chewing on a couple of peanut butter sandwiches as we meander, savoring the time exploring. It’s fun.

Rock City, NM

Without clearly marked trails, it’s all about wandering here, just because that’s the way ya do it…..over, around, up, and across these beauties….yes, just wander.

Back on the road, we turn away from the interstate to explore the “long way” along state road NM180 through Solver City and the Gila National Forest at which point the road crosses over the peak of the Continental Divide at 6,850 ft. still in NM. A perfect exit from Rock City.

Rock CIty, NM

We roll into Tucson just before 5, a little late from our diversion. The cool December sun is setting. For once, it doesn’t matter that it is dark. We are gratefully staying with friends for the next couple of nights. The camper fits in their spacious driveway adjacent to a magnificent cactus garden. Michael and I and poodle spread out in their luxurious guest house. Bear is the most thrilled to be in a house. Before meeting up with our hosts, I dive right into the shower, prepping for the south western hospitality. We will spend the next day off the road, visit the Desert Museum – when I am compelled to post all the animals I see there on Facebook! I’ll spare you the bad tourist pix, but I did catch the condors in profile.

Arizona Sonora Desert Museum.

When you are next in Tucson, do look to spend time at the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum. (Desertmuseum.org) We have a wonderful time. We see a sleeping mountain lion/puma up close through a glass window, a cheetah striding across its “natural” landscape of rocks and grasses, the two female big horned sheep hopping up and around their little mountain watching the wild squirrels who were roughhousing in this caged place they could visit as their a sanctuary, too. Not to miss is a room full of all different kinds of desert snakes in aquariums, a huge open-air house for hummingbirds, another for other types of birds, another enclosure for a couple of small condors and the cutest burrowing owls unafraid of us viewing them. All these in the midst of every type of cactus you can imagine. The botanical side of the exhibit is the strongest, I think, as it looks wild, but everything is planted. Docents are helpfully stationed around to make conversation. Museum lives up to its mission – to foster love and appreciation and understanding of the Sonoran desert. Grateful!

A pair of small condors.

Ojai or bust!

It is an early departure from Tucson at 8:30 am. We have rested up in the guest house. The hospitality has restored our energies: a home cooked breakfast, a cheerful dinner out and another one at a beautifully set dining room table. Christmas decor in abundance is so cheerful. A full tree covered in ornaments reaches to the ceiling. The holiday season is in full swing here.

Our exit seems abrupt. We are enormously grateful for the new friendship and care of the Frelinghausens.

As we pack up, Bear is well aware of the agenda. He takes only a quick walk in the morning. The bag packing warns him that it is the time for him to go. Like some people we know, he is a nervous Nelly before a departure. The minute he can find that the car door is open, he hops in the front or the back seat!

On the road, it is not long until a first gas and rest stop. Now is the time, I say firmly to Bear, pulling his 55 pounds to nudge him out, then again nudge him along to find a couple of rocks among all the cactus that might work to pee. He is back to the car in a flash. As the day unfolds, we will stop again for gas in Arizona, stop to find our lunch in the camper to eat in the car, and at every chance, offer him a chance to stretch. He is clear. He is not interested in getting out. He holds on all the way til Ojai, then leaps remembering right where he is.

I note the time at 6:30 pm as we drive in our own driveway, too late for the sunset. No worries at all. It is Saturday, December 9, 2023. Trip #5 cross country is done. We are safe, sound, and delighted we have had such a great time.

Thanks for reading about the journey. Your comments are always most welcome.

Let’s stay in touch!

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Basecamp 103 – Post Six

Fort Dobbs State Park in the Davis Mountains of west Texas to Las Cruces, New Mexico:

Fort Dobbs State Park

The state park is perfect! Thank you, Texas. Fort Dobbs has spacious campsites, each situated under beautiful old oak trees along a now dry arroyo that has carved its path through the rolling mountains. We have seen endless repetitions of this geology from the freeways in the last 3 days across West Texas. Now, up close, the deer walk by, a bird feeding station attracts an assortment of visitors to a variety of feeding stations. The park has done a great job with identification posters. We encounter friendly campers walking dogs, enjoying the open skies, and exploring. Our neighbor is staying a week; another couple will be here for two, the max. The license plate assortment confirms the obvious; we are retreating from northern climates.

Fort Dobbs

The park rangers have answered the phone, called me back, and welcomed us with Texas smiles. They offer a copy of a clear map of the site with all the hiking trails. We settle right in under crystal clear skies.

A moon is rising just as the sun drops, about 4:45. Very special. We enjoy dinner in the dark that turns to a moonlight view through the woods from our cozy camper table. Bear sits outside on his long lead with ears perked up. Lots to listen for.

Clean up feels like a breeze as I tuck frying pan and cook pot back in their spots; rinse off the silverware and dinner plates, and set up tomorrow’s coffee pot. Meanwhile, Michael has the camper detached from the car, it’s level, the electric and water are connected saving our battery and tank full for reserve. Finally, all is quiet – there is motion in the silence. No emails or texts, no service of any kind.

Camping in style

We are too tired to drive the 5 miles to the “star show” at the observatory, but will keep this on the list for a return trip. Opened in 1933, we learn The University of Texas McDonald Observatory has 3 telescopes. Situated at the top of Mt. Locke at 6,800 feet, it was the best in the US for decades as West Texas has the clearest skies in the country. When I am back in wfi range, I find their fascinating website: [https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/] .

There are endless trails through the Davis mountains. Remnants of the not so romantic Wild West are found in old forts, cavalry army bases and occasional mission erected in this enormous high desert. What a contrast to the flat over-mined oil soaked asphalt on weathered freeway surfaces 5 lanes wide divided by a median strip plus service roads. Texas features at least 3 east west interstates: 1-10 through Houston, -20 through Dallas and 1-40 through Amarillo: that is a lot of “territory” bi-furcating a once fertile landscape. No more criss-crossing by migrating species, no way for a buffalo to roam around here today.

The next morning, the stillness is replaced by a stiff wind. A park ranger arriving at 7 am has news from the weather stations, reaffirmed by neighbor campers that across the south west, winds are expected by noon over 40 mph. Our light rig is not safe in wind. After a wonderful walk about, we decide to get a jump on the miles to go. (We have told friends to expect us e in Tucson in two days.) As attractive as the state park is, we respect the weather reports.

We pull ourselves up and out of this valley to ascend the road to Mt. Locke, we find our phones blinging as we return to cellular service. The wind prediction is now 65 mile an hour. Other campers are changing their plans, too. We aren’t the first to leave.

Camping at Fort Dobbs

We make it until noon against the forces, then check in to a KOA a mile off the road. Convenience 101. I ask for a campsite “with trees” thinking they will help to buffer the wind. Well, not really.

Our Camper

Reports are correct. A large American flag is whipping around its pole with accompanying clatter of the metal hooks. This is not fun, Bear seems to say looking out the open car door from his back seat throne. I give him a tug. Now Buster! He is right again. It’s not fun. En route to the dog park his ears look the flag, whipping about his head as he squints into the air. At least it is warm, so he can perch outside the camper door in the lee, hooked on his long lead, just in case they have cats here. (They do. Cats seem to be prowling around every campground.)

This is the earliest we have ever set up a site. I am relieved to be securely anchored during the batting winds. Other campers trickle in soon after us. A little open time for an afternoon means a nap, a good read, a few emails for the first time in three days, a dinner of fresh spinach and pasta stir fry with a little white wine. Ah, this is the life.

PS

This stop is just past Las Cruces, NM. When headed the other direction last April (west to east) we took the time to drive into town. Las Cruces has a central colonial-style square filled with trees, park benches, and lots of character. This is the home of the University of SW Texas and the restaurants and watering holes reflect this. We had a memorable to-go lunch from La Nueva Casita, [https://www.lanuevacasitacafe.com/]a favorite of students. We were tipped off by an alum! Not today. Too much wind. We are dining in! Hah!

Sight seeing

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Basecamp 103 – Post Five

Decision Time: Marfa, Texas

I am driving out of Abilene back onto 1-20 again. The gas stations are enormous here and construction on freeways is underway. Picnic area? Can you see the blue sign?

On the road

Michael Pulitzer wants to go to Marfa Texas 350 miles south out of our way. We have had a continuing debate over this, but now, here we are. This is the time to turn. We stop gas again. MP hops in the driver’s seat. His map app is set. He is determined that Marfa is the place to go now, on this trip. He is intrigued by the Donald Judd art installation. I love art, but I am not inclined to drive hundreds of miles to see “an art installation.” I want to stay on the high direct road to Tucson through Phoenix to LA on 1-20 and link our stops through the state and national parks. Carlsbad Caverns is one just 30 miles off the interstate. MP simply replies, “Marfa”. It won’t be another time without a poodle. It won’t include Big Bend National Park which we won’t see because it adds 3 days or 200 miles out of our way to the US/Mexico border.

On the road

MP books the Airstream-only campground from the info on my phone. This place only answers text messages, takes payment on “square” and will not speak to us. This is in stark contrast to the all-across-America chain of campgrounds. Someone is always quick to pick up the phone and call back with an answer. Then, MP books tickets for the art experience at The Studio and home of Donald Judd in Marfa. He suffers a few mis-hits: “The site doesn’t work” “It didn’t confirm” “I don’t know” I hear him saying. Do I do the same? Maybe. Automatic frustration!

To our delight, the drive to Marfa takes us through a beautiful state park and by a national monument. No time to stop. But I take a memo that this would be a great place to return to. Fort Davis State Park.

Road Poodle

I sit to write from the prompt I’ve offered to the Stockbridge Library group today. How is your hair today? My hair was clean the night before last in Shreveport LA. It’s wonderful to wake up, rinse off, and get to the plan to make it a 365-mile-long day. This morning was another early call to chew up not our 5-hour prediction, but 6.5 for us after gas and pit stops and a little traffic. So, I am wearing a hat.

Enjoying the sunset

MARFA

The sun sets later at this side of the time zone – still Central. We have texted directions. It is called Marfa Texas Country Club Airstream Park. It is minimalist with plain awnings and cement platforms and not another soul here. Orange cones across the field mark future campsites they plan to add. There are big black dogs barking in a large metal box house. 5 airstream trailers are also on cement pads but they are empty hotel rooms for visitors to stay on this flat desert landscape of West Texas. We pull in #7 that we find back in the text we received. There are no real buildings here. Hookups – yes, bathrooms and showers – no. I am just furiously disappointed. Instead of making dinner, I sit in the chair provided without a table to enjoy an early glass of wine. I feel like a gringo caught in an LA trap at the end of the tourist maze. We have our own Airstream. This place is for folks to drive in and use the ones already here!

I make plans to pull out tomorrow, a day early. We can get back to Ft Davis State Park in rolling mountains after all our art dates. Click click. I make a telephone call. A woman picks up the phone. They are almost full, but we are reserved for tomorrow night! Hah. We get a lot of sleep. There is nothing to do.

Donald Judd’s home and studios: No Pictures Allowed!

Donald Judd’s home and studios: No Pictures Allowed!

The morning tour MP reserved is full. It includes 20 of us: several Californians, a couple of Europeans, obvious artists, a woodworker, a father and son, and us. This is more people than I’ve seen in days.

The Block House is where Judd lived. After getting started in New York, he lived here when he wasn’t installing his work all over the world. His two children went to elementary school in Marfa. He was divorced. His home is another studio space which means it is a place to hold objects with respect to what they are made of, their lines, and the balance, without encumbrances or unnecessary distractions. The work is not abstract, it is minimalist, with clean powerful lines in some specifically chosen metal, acrylic, bronze, wood cement, and on and on. There is nothing extra. But there is a lot of whatever Judd collects: enormous quantities of arrowheads, rocks, shells, and books -30,000 of them stored on thick wooden bookshelves that stretch up to the top of the ceiling. He designed his furniture or collected it. Each piece is done with precision No nails to be seen. He has heaps of hand-woven rugs to keep the walls warm in the smaller spaces meant for winter life.

He added buildings around the original structure that was on the train line. He crafted outdoor tables and chairs of block wood. A cement grill is a block with grates. The bathroom in a detached structure, is in sections with a spa bathtub and sauna. The kitchen is the heart of the story with stacks of pottery and enormous serving bowls, a butcher block kitchen counter top, and two beautiful tables for all the guests. Every dining room chair is unique and we are invited to finally sit down in one. Up a wide flight of stairs is a great expanse of a room for sleeping.

Judd was at his work all the time. There are beds in all sorts of places; his library, his “studio”. He could sleep where he wanted to be thinking. His productivity is exceptional. His genius never rested. His focus is apparent in every seam of each piece of material; wood, glass, metal, and acrylic.

And NO PIX allowed anywhere. Some visitors on the tour are catching quick clicks. But I, for once, follow the rules. The website features beauties you can see here: _https://juddfoundation.org_ The Judd Foundation in the town.

We don’t make it to see Chianti, named after the local mountains._https://chinati.org _ It is an extensive site for installing permanent collections. It offers residencies, hires artists, offers scholarships, and hosts public programs.

Check out the spaces! When in NYC, check out _101 Spring Street _where he lived before moving to Texas.

The next tour is after a nice lunch at “The Signal” a restaurant in former newspaper print house. The Studio spaces are also right in town. One is a converted bank building with a beautiful facade. Upstairs, Judd kept separate projects in each of the “offices” where bankers had worked. While each room is distinctive, there is a continuity and clean-lined repetition that recurs here as it does throughout his work and life. Judd also bought an abandoned grocery store where we find there extended tables curated with prints, notes, photographs, and other flat projects. He had a small house in town for guests which we explore.

Judd died young in the midst of his thriving career. A brief illness took him too soon. In 64 years, he had already established one foundation The Chinati to provide space for other curated artists. For example, John Chamberlain’s wrecked cars are a feature we see in another building in town. Most of Chianti is five miles away in a massive building project once an army base that Judd acquired. While he was well paid from all of his sales of his work, he spent his fortune here creating a living and breathing art in these spaces he curated for us to visit today. There was very little money left by the time he passed away.

I have to say we could only visit the work in the town. We were exhausted by his lean grand minimalism; his contradictions. They are fabulous, infectious, subtle, and beautiful. My mind was changed. I was glad I came. If you are ever invited to go to Marfa, put the town in your GPS. Just do it!

Life is good

Tour done. I was all packed up to pull out of the Airstream campground for the 40-minute shuffle to the Fort Davis State Park which is 26 miles away. We find oak-filled woods, a warm welcome from the park rangers, and several other campers in tents, trailers, and RV’s. From here, I reflect on how much I appreciated how Judd crafted his life to do what he needed to do to get to the basic layers of his treatise. What does an object do in SPACE?

How lean, clean, and empty can it be?

Dawn at our campsite in Fort Davis State Park in West Texas.

Dawn at our campsite in Fort Davis State Park in West Texas.

Deer

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Basecamp 103 – Part 4

Sunday
– It’s Central Standard Time in Meridian Mississippi.

We drive 9 am to 6 pm from NC through SC, GA, and AL to the first town in MI. It is dark at 6:30 when we miss the turn. Even though we have been at this KOA campground before, I only remember after we arrived. And we can’t find it!

Instead of a hard right onto the paved street, MP makes a gentle right onto the dirt road. In a hurry, we drive too fast through the muddy clay of this Georgia road. By the time the car slows at a rare opening where we can turn around thanks to a driveway, we are in the midst of some swampy territory. Deliverance Retro! The camper is plastered with mud on the front and unimaginable mounds are caked underneath. My sneaker shoes and I sink into the wet turf as I run around in the dark in these unexpected backwoods to direct

MP in a U-turn that is 3 Y’s. 3 stops and starts later, we get back in the right direction to the right road. Turn a HARD right. Turn HERE! I’m commanding. Whew. I’m frabbled. I just make up the word. The car is coated. It looks like we are one of the rough riders proudly sporting our ride in our 4-wheeler as we swing into the city streets. By the way, it is not appreciated when campers wash their rigs in their campsites. It leaves all sorts of a mess. MP finds the connections, sets the hookups while I assemble an instant dinner from our last night bar-b-que with our son’s and all his family. Ahh. That’s a nice contribution
he made to our trip I think, soothing myself.

Instant dinner made with leftover BBQ

It is KOA to KOA to get to Shreveport LA then Abiline TX, each 300 miles.

Our Poodle

It’s an on-time departure at 8:30 AM; stop at a rest area to walk dog who doesn’t want to get out of the car, but does. We stop for gas at the ridiculous price of $2.75. And stop for our first “junk food” lunch. It’s Mickey D’s for MP. I can’t do it and walk to Chipotle for a rice and beans bowl with guacamole and a grapefruit fizz for $23 smackers vs his $12 meal deal. I enjoy the Chipotle line of “chefs” who scoop what is 2 in front of them into my bowl. Would I like this rice or that one? Each of them are pleasant wearing crisp uniforms. They smile. They look healthy, their expressions may not be shining like the sun, but they are changing, responding to me, then to that guy. They know I am alive. I’m sure the food tastes better because of this. I later learn there are opportunities for advancement at Chipotle.

The drive through Dallas is a first for us. We have been able to avoid it on past crisscrosses. The view looks like a new onslaught of thruways and connecting arched overpasses, 6 or 7 lanes each way. Overpasses arch 3 levels high as they curve in different directions. The roadside has no attractions. A freeway free for all. What could exist alongside such dangerous auto routes? There are rows of extended plain white buildings that look like unadorned flat boxes. Each box features a corner with an identifying logo to distinguish it from the others. Each one looks like they cover acres of square footage. I feel like I’ve never seen highway architecture before.

Texas map

Oddly, the highway system seems to have paved its way across not only the natural
topography but many front driveways. On a regular basis, I see abandoned houses with front doors towards a “frontage road” which must have been a nice idea before 1955 or ’60 or ’70. Why weren’t the houses torn down? Can they be repurposed, moved? Recycled?.
Can a whole house be recycled? I dream up the company: zero down.com – cheap old houses in Texas.

As we drive, we can receive TV channels via audio. We listen to CNN, MSNBC &
CNBC and $ news til I can’t stand it anymore. Are my kids, my friends in tune to the
tone of tv voices all day? Do they hear about the disastrous government, the war and torture across the human race? It does infect my dreamscape if I’m not careful. Everyone
on the planet must be aware of the Israeli response to the unprovoked terrorist action
of Hamas, the bizarre political resolute group apparently amoral. They are attacking
Israeli state that starved Palestine of its resources, ah let’s count the ways. Please, let’s turn it down for a few miles. Thank you.

The Texas rest stops have interesting mini museums with stories of the first gas stations and the “accidental billionaire” Conrad Hilton. Another has a map of the topography of the state. This is interesting as it must be effected by these roads.

Conrad Hilton

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Basecamp 103 – Part 3

Basecamp 103 – Post Three

Drive to Charlotte, NC

The drive to Charlotte is only 3 hours, so 4 for us. We have time to find a stop for
lunch. I enter “North Carolina State Park” on “maps” then “add stop” and we find Ft
Dobbs is in Statesville, NC. I have never heard of it, though we lived 25 miles away for
20 years. Turns out it opened in 2019.

Back on I-81 - south

Back on I-81 – south

We pull into a wide open field with one enormous 4-story log house that has small
square windows along the top floor. It is a military fort we learn from a charming young guide dressed in a long wool coat, knickers, white knee socks, and a 3-point hat from the pre-revolutionary colonial period. He explains the fort was rebuilt from the original plans and replaced here where it was during the “French and Indian War” that lasted from 1755 – 69. It was inhabited by local men in the local militia to intercept and stop the British invasion. We hear how the Cherokee Indians, among others, befriended the white man to get what he needed. Other tribes were assisting the French coming down from the north. Basically, the Brits got caught in the middle! The story of this confusing war across the continent is a splatter of incidents between Europeans and indigenous peoples while settlers were attempting to survive in this untamed countryside. There were many battles,
small and horrific, that left deep scars of distrust that perpetuated the war.

Fort Dobbs State Park, NC

Fort Dobbs State Park, NC

4th floor of the 1755 fort rebuilt from original plans on the original site in the middle of a wide flat field…

4th floor of the 1755 fort rebuilt from original plans on the original site in the middle of a wide flat field…

We are the only visitors! It is very windy and cold. The intermittent rains resume, so
we wrap up the history lesson as politely as possible to sequester in the camper for a bite of lunch snug around the end table out of the elements. It will be an hour to Charlotte, I mean an hour or two.

4th floor of the 1755 fort rebuilt from original plans on the original site in the middle of a wide flat field…

4th floor of the 1755 fort rebuilt from original plans on the original site in the middle of a wide flat field…

We feel a sense of relief and cheer as the Basecampbacks into the tree-lined narrow driveway that is a warm home to our son Cael and his family. Three cheers to Michael for backing safely past the neighbor’s brick wall and all the lovely parked cars on the suburban
cul de sac. We hug three grandchildren, their welcoming mom and dad grateful we can be here, then we head straight to their warm showers.

Charlotte, we have arrived!

Charlotte, we have arrived!

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Basecamp 103 Part 2

Basecamp 103 – November 2023

Nat­ur­al Bridge Vir­ginia is a sign I have seen on I – 81 in­ter­state high­way for years
en route from our old home in North Car­oli­na to the Berk­shires. It was al­ways too soon
for a stop and too near home for a stop. To­day it is per­fect.

We pull in by 3:15. Park the Base­camp at the camp­ground, de­tach the car for the
five-mile drive to the his­toric State Park https://www.d­cr.vir­gini­a.­gov/state-parks/natur­al-bridge.

The first com­ment on any web­page about the park is to be­ware that ac­cess: 137
steps. We ex­pect to pay an en­trance fee, but there isn’t a park ranger sta­tion un­til we
go DOWN the ad­ver­tised steps. I ask the ranger, will you lock the gates af­ter 5 pm
clos­ing time? ”Aw don’t wor­ry about it” the young man in uni­form quips. I can only
hope he will be right. It is near­ly 4 pm.

Natural Bridge, VA

The bridge is a deep blue lime­stone arch that cross­es a canyon like a wall. It is as
high as the Stat­ue of Lib­er­ty at 215 Ft. Cedar Creek cre­at­ed this place, cut­ting through
the karst ter­rain that now grow thick woods on steep hill­sides. The trail is well
groomed and lined with stone walls craft­ed gen­er­a­tions ago. Thomas Jef­fer­son lived
and farmed near­by: Mon­ti­cel­lo. He would vis­it to ad­mire the nat­ur­al fea­ture at every
op­por­tu­ni­ty, es­pe­cial­ly on trips home from Wash­ing­ton DC. At the end of his life, it
was a re­gret that he was not able to pre­serve it. As a re­sult, some com­mer­cial in­ter­ests
have grown and some are still in op­er­a­tion. A large ho­tel is perched at the edge of the
ravine, and sev­er­al camp­grounds and cab­ins are pri­vate­ly run.

Natural Bridge, VA

It is a cold mid­week late af­ter­noon vis­it, but we still pass a hand­ful of vis­i­tors
equal­ly in awe of the qui­et, ever chang­ing mono­lith. The sun­set rays re­flect the last
light of the day. Down­stream from the nat­ur­al bridge along the creek is site of a saltpeter cave where pa­tri­ots in sup­port of the Rev­o­lu­tion found potas­si­um ni­trate. This was fer­ment­ed then brewed into acon­coc­tion that be­came gun­pow­der. (Salt­peter is a lengthy and com­pli­cat­ed process. France pro­vid­ed much of the gun­pow­der need­ed
by the colonies as they waged war against the British.)

Natural Bridge, VA

It is a beau­ti­ful walk along the creek. We feel cheered up af­ter the stress­es of leaving home and the hum of the en­gine all day on the road. Bear, who rules the whole back­seat in his taco dog bed, has de­cid­ed that gas sta­tions and most rest stops aren’t worth it. Ahh, but he no­tices the dif­fer­ence from the paved park­ing lot that this stop means a good walk. He jumps right out, tail up, nose alert, a lit­tle dance at the end of the ex­ten­sion leash. He is thrilled to drink from the rocky shal­lows of the creek. The
gen­tle park trail is only a cou­ple of hours up and back.

Natural Bridge, VA

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Basecamp 103 – Part 1

Ramelle’s News­letter
Ba­se­camp 103 – Post One

Stock­bridge – Ojai Cross Coun­try Drive – No­vember 29,  2023

We pull out of our Stock­bridge dri­ve­way by 11 Wednes­day morn­ing. The 4-hour
drive to the first camp­ground I re­served takes 6 pulling the 20-foot Airstream Basecamp in tow be­hind our BMWX5. We choose a “full look up” to have wa­ter at our site,
even though it will be be­low 32 freez­ing tonight.

Our camper

Dark­ness is upon us at 4:15 just as we pull into Her­shey, Penn­syl­va­nia RV campground. The staff close up by 5 but we are glad they are there to smile, wel­come us,
of­fer us a cup of cof­fee and show us ex­act­ly where to go. Thanks, we say. All set. The
bath­rooms are warm and in­su­lat­ed. We have stopped here be­fore. The poo­dle knows
where the dog park pen is!

Next morn­ing, from un­der my warm cov­ers on a firm pad of the Base­camp mattress, the light changes with the sun­rise. We are pret­ty well slept in our trav­el­ing home,
it is warm. The wa­ter works, the lights turn on, the stove heats up wa­ter for the drip
cof­fee. A lit­tle cold milk from the frig, Lux­u­ry in an alu­minum can! The hook-ups add to
life’s ameni­ties, but we could go “solo” as we have wa­ter and all the food we need. Ah,
the oth­er fac­tor: the blue sky is an im­por­tant and pos­i­tive note to be­gin our trip across
the States: Stock­bridge to Ojai.

Bear

“We” means two on two legs and one on four…. Bear, our blue stan­dard poo­dle is
mak­ing the trip for his fifth time, too. But he is on his own this time. The fe­male age 12,
Coala, is no longer with us. She flew up to rain­bow land where all good dogs go to
run and play again. We are all ad­just­ing. We look for her in emp­ty cor­ners, won­der­ing
how to fill the time we spent car­ing for her: walk­ing with her slow­ly, llift­ing her in and
out of the car (she loved to go places al­ways sit­ting up to watch out the win­dow), being her friend. Bear age 9 was the best at this. Nev­er­the­less, he is pret­ty. good on his
first trav­el day, just a cough from the rains last week and a cou­ple of mid­dle of the
night walks to see where we are. Thanks, Michael.

Yes­ter­day, I packed up the whole sec­ond car with suit­cas­es, art­work and a few
shoes and slighter things tucked in the cor­ners to be ready to roll for the auto-trans­fer
car­ri­er. It takes us a full week­end to col­lapse the kitchen, ri­fle through the ice box, secure the gar­den stuff, clean off the garage shelves. Of course there is the pack­ing up
and re­ar­rang­ing suit­cas­es, stor­ing woolens for the rest of the win­ter, sort­ing through
the clos­et of cloth­ing and coats, giv­ing away a huge shop­ping bag to my friend and
house clean­er to pour through. Her in­struc­tions: en­joy or do­nate to The Cat Walk. The
trash is off to the dump, the com­post to the gar­den, tv sys­tem down­sized to va­ca­tion
mode, mail for­ward­ed, my desk sor­ta neater, my com­put­er be­hind the dri­ver’s seat for
the trip. This re­arrangement of life to live be­tween places may be like many with “second homes”. But we have a third home. And also pack that to we move into it, tak­ing
just enough for the next two weeks. Hel­lo Ba­se­camp. Here we go again!

It is hon­est­ly nerve wrack­ing to head out. All car and camper sys­tems need a double check; the “blue tooth” app on Michael’s phone con­trols the brakes in the camper;
the propane heaters need to be on overnight and OFF when we drive! It is be­low
freez­ing. We don’t need frozen, let alone bro­ken pipes. It makes us snip­py … na na na
…. We re­mind each oth­er. We can do this. Yes, we can. From Her­shey, it is on to Virginia via I-81 to Nat­ur­al Bridge, a state park I’ve al­ways want­ed to see.

Posted in Airstream, Basecamp, Travel Journals | Comments Off on Basecamp 103 – Part 1

January 12 2024 Ramelle’s Newsletter Resumes

January 11, 2024
Ramelle’s Newsletter Resumes
Hello Readers,

Ok!. It’s time! Yes. Time to post those revised travel notes of mine from my own trip with my husband cross country that we took again this November, and from various New View Tours trips to Ecuador, Peru, Patagonia, Chile, as well as a barge trip on the Central canal in Burgundy, France.

Let’s start with the ifth cross-country camping trip with the Airstream 20 ft. Basecamp. It is partly planned with room for lots of serendipity: where to
stop and start; life along the freeways of the USA; unexpected state parks, well recognized national parks, public parks in small towns, private art galleries and studios. We design the trip to visit a couple of friends and family (warm showers). Through it all, the aluminum camper is our luxury home in a can!

The US venture/voyage is based a premise we devised during covid pandemic times: find a way to visit family and friends, a way to travel and at the same time remain self-contained from pods of germs; to travel and still be open and alert to new views. The first trip in 2021 came after a great year of New View Tours travels and several family excursions, some memorable enough to recount in snips and snaps.
I have notes to share from the week on a barge. On that French canal trip in October, we visited duke’s castles and palaces, a hospice and many burgundy vineyards., mostly in the rain!

New View Tours is always brewing up itineraries to visit our favorites in Peru, Chile, Ecuador and Baja, Mexico; and return trips to Northern Spain, Southwest France adding on new stops to keep up with changes, to stay fresh and interesting. I’ll share some posts I did not post before.

But I digress.

It will be a pleasure and a delight to have you stop by to read along for this tall tale. Have comments, suggestions, questions? Please be in touch anytime.

Best,
Ramelle

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A NEW New View Tour for 2024

The Atacama Desert & Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
March 2024!

Atacama Desert  Atacama Desert

A tour in 3 parts: 4 nights at each destination:

From Santiago, Chile fly to Calama to stay in the town of San Pedro de Atacama

Discover the Valley of the Moon; float in a salted lagoon of Tabenquinche. Visit the geyser field of Tatio; view the exceptional night skies at Allu de Solor. Experience Hotel Cumbres.

From Calama fly to La Serena in the Coquimbo Region to see the Elqui Valley.

From the town, explore the Valle del Equi to see the region and visit the Pisco Elqui distillery.

Experience Montegrande and Vicuna. Visit the second oldest city in Chile – La Serena – again experience exceptional night skies!

The popular Frey Jorge National Park with 4 ecosystems – a CONAF site
(watch the video), and Barraza town and the exceptional Enchanted Valley National Monument.

Experience Hotel Campanario, Hotel Solar de Madariaga

It is another flight to Easter Island, 2000 miles into the Pacific to find a Polynesian tropical paradise with Ahus and Moais sculptures; to hear the stories of Rapa Nui as told by the earliest explorers to this 25-mile island!

Here the option to stay at the beautiful Hare Ute Hotel is an all-inclusive package on Easter Island.

This tour and these sites are very popular. We choose March, the shoulder season. Hotels are booked quickly. We have a limited number of rooms on hold!

Atacama Desert

Interested? Please send an email for an illustrated itinerary and pricing information!

Ramelle & Michael Pulitzer
Ramelle1@mac.com. 336 416 2390
michael2@me.com. 413 717 5459

Posted in All, Atacama, Chile, Easter Island, Travel Journals | Comments Off on A NEW New View Tour for 2024

A NEW New View Tour for 2024

The Atacama Desert & Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
March 2024!

Northern Chile – an excursion to San Pedro in the Atacama Desert – with an add-on tour to Rapa Nui, Easter Island. This trip is brand new!

A full itinerary is available upon request. Contact Ramelle 

Let’s get back to our favorite tours:

Patagonia, Chile – head to the beautiful Torres del Paine for a first trip, or head back again to rediscover the changing views here; hike or photograph; rest or explore! Private transfer or public bus? Many ways to design your excursion. And consider a new-to-you exploration to any of the the newer national parks created by a collaboration between the Chilean government and the remarkable Tomkins Conservation Foundation – over 17 parks in less than 2 decades – and still growing.

Spain – as the temperatures return to “manageable”, this country is beautiful. Excellent train service, the best museums and stunning examples of architecture throughout time. So many cities to explore: From Madrid travel to a new or return to a familiar region: Basque? Catalonia? Adalucia? and many more! Be in touch if we can help you plan or book a tour!

France – The Castles and Caves are awaiting your visit – best during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. Many caves close in winter.

Ecuador explore -we look forward to booking tours to this beautiful country! The notices are not good now, but friends there say they are doing well in the High Sierras. Let’s keep an eye on things and plan to go soon!

Thanks so much for your support and endorsements from those of you who have traveled with us! Your notes made such a difference! View a few of them!  Have a memory of a trip with New View you would be able to share? A favorite picture? Send it along! We have been at this for twelve years; subtracting two years lost to the pandemic – it is ten!

We do look forward to your ideas and interests.

Ramelle & Michael

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Tierra del Fuego & Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

A 2023 New View Tour to Patagonia

After a very long flight and extended drive from the airport, we are delighted to join the Andrews and the Parrish couples in the adjacent restaurant in a glass atrium with views of the Punta Arenas bay. Friends from years ago when they worked overseas in Switzerland; Sandy & Elly Andrews from New England and Jeremy & Julia Parrish’s from Sussex, England are joining the two of us, Michael and Ramelle on a New View Tour. I have designed the trip with assistance from a Chilean friend who has her travel company here in Punta Arenas assisting with tours to the national parks throughout this long country. It has been a pleasure to work with her; our itinerary is drafted, our fingers are crossed for  a great trip!

We receive a warm welcome in the late afternoon at La Yegua Loca Hotel (wild young filly). A driver brought us here from the Punta Arenas airport. He is wearing the classic Chilean version of a Basque beret wool cap tipped casually to the side of his smile. He hoists my weather beaten duffle up a narrow flight of wooden stairs. It feels like I am entering the back of a 3 story Boston tenement house. Exactly. This is a historic Patagonia city house perched on a promontory that views the vessels in the harbor. It is now an inn appointed with examples of sheep farming equipment built into the decor. Plowshares and pitchforks hang from the rafters, troughs for water are overturned to become lights, cowhides are affixed to the walls with worn wooden beams. It is an appealing, welcoming style of yesteryore! The corner gift shop features hand knitted woolen hats, leather aprons worn by the staff, and journals, maps and all sorts of Knick knacks.

Our first departure is very early morning in order to catch the ferry to cross the Straits of Magellan to the island of Tierra del Fuego. Today it is the smaller one which means no place to sit, except the van. The boat is unfortunately in repair for this week. In this way, we begin adapting our expectations, adjusting to the winds,  stepping up on deck only briefly to the experience the views across the channel.

We make the stop to see the King Penguins who have decided that their special spot for their colony along this small river strip between the ocean and the mainland quite a distance to their field of green grass. They bob their heads, step and rock and nuzzle their baby penguins in animated pairs. As far away as they are from us, the view is still fascinating. Helpful is the standing binoculars set to see them best. A knowledgeable park ranger finally shows up to add lots of details and Chilean perspective in English. Finally at the Lodge Deseado on a large glacial lake by the same name, we find beautifully appointed cabins within full view of rolling glacial mountains. It will be 5 nights here. The meal is ready we learn. Tonight is a sampling plate. We won’t have to decide a thing. Except where to choose to go tomorrow!

Posted in Patagonia, Travel Journals | Comments Off on Tierra del Fuego & Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Ecuador Any Time!

We have these trips we can offer you with confidence – with Hosts and English speaking guides to welcome you.

Let us help you draw up a personal itinerary with your interests and preferences:

ECUADOR – Many Faces! Many Places!!

The Galapagos Islands – 3 – 8 day itineraries on various cruise ships

A small cruise ship – 16 pax is perfect – navigates the islands stopping in unique, distinctive locations.. Choose a 3, 4 or 8 day cruise. The itinerary is mapped to avoid crowding with other groups.

Hacienda Cusin – for a long weekend or stay the week

Enjoy hospitality and relaxation in the exceptionally unique design at Hacienda Cusin

Consider this destination before or after the Galapagos – only 80 minutes from the airport, but a world away. Remain on the property or Explore the variety of the country:

– hike along the rim of the Cuicocha volcano in the Cotacachi National Park

-explore and shop the market place in the bustling town of Otavalo

– visit the private weaving studios of Maria Tijantansuyo

– drive to the remote Mojanda Lake at the base of spectacular FuyaFuya ….

– horseback ride where ever your heart desires….

Intag & Mindo Cloud Forests – for a night or two

– stay in ecolodge or nature preserve hotel

– travel on your own or with naturalist guide,

– live amidst the most beautiful bird life, butterflies and moths in the world

– encounter the kinkajou and the owl like pino bird, the cock-o-the-rock deep in his forest

– taste coffee where the beans are grown in shade plantations

– learn chocolate production from a visit to the local factories

Quitsato – for an hour

En route to or from the country, find this restored indigenous monument to the middle of the world .03 degrees from the GPS measurement for the equator within view of the highest mountain on the earth’s circumference, Cuyumbe.

Cuenca – spend a long weekend or take the week here. It is a short flight  to explore this third-largest city in the country: visit Panama hat factory; the Caja National Park; discover excellent restaurants in the historic center city; relive the ecclesiastical life through the displays in the exceptional museum.

Several hotels to choose from, El Garden Hotel with a gourmet kitchen overlooking one of 4 rivers;

Independence Plaza in front of the Presidential Palace with view to the “new” cathedral in Quito Ecuador.

Independence Plaza in front of the Presidential Palace with view to the “new” cathedral in Quito Ecuador.

Amazon Jungle Experience – 2 – 3 days

Stay in a lodge or travel by luxury river boat cruise ship on the Napo River .Take a short flight to Coca to transfer to a jungle lodge for 3 to 5 days

Find monkeys, parrots, parakeets, birds – people stay on board walks for safety. Or decide to take a cruise on the Anakonda, a luxury boat that explores the river’s secrets while you reside in the comfort of air conditioned small yacht.

 

HIKING?

BIKING?

MOTORCYCLE?

just ask….

A tour through biodiverse country with the most volcanoes right on the equator – Ecuador is a cultural tour, a walking or hiking tour; a wonder of amazing new views – whatever tour you choose.

New View Tours travelers again caught in this pix In front of the amazing cathedral finally completed by 1600 by the Jesuits in Quito Ecuador - La Compania. The facade is carved stone repeated inside in gold painted wood that looks like the real metal!

New View Tours travelers again caught in this pix In front of the amazing cathedral finally completed by 1600 by the Jesuits in Quito Ecuador – La Compania. The facade is carved stone repeated inside in gold painted wood that looks like the real metal!

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NVT 2023 Hello Travelers!

Travels & Trips for 2023 & 2024

There is nothing as much fun as the chance to head out on a trip, except to know that you have a small pod of friends to travel with you to enjoy the way. We are delighted to be back post pandemic!

My note book is full of memories and fresh ideas for you and yours when you decide to go to: a couple of lessons: A) late February 2023 was much more stormy than expected! Climate is changing the weather. The winds had picked up already limiting our visits to glaciers and penguin colonies.. The conditions are simply unpredictable – the safer months are late November, December and January maybe into the first two weeks of February.

Need a little inspiration?

Whether you are a seasoned traveler or first time toe dipper, you will know when to explore for yourself!  Let’s be in touch! Here are our suggestions!

 Favorite New Views and WHEN TO GO:

SPAIN – Spring is beautiful in Northern part of this country in April & May; or choose the Fall season after the summer heat abates. Try out September or October, but we have learned to respect Columbus Day when the country shuts down for serious celebration in the streets! This trip can be adapted to your preferred level of activity: from day hikes to van touring. See a few stories here:  https://newviewtours.com/all/gardens-art-of-spain

FRANCE – The Castles and Caves tour is in a beautiful and popular part of the country. Consider September or early October before some caves close for the winter season. This trip involves walking on cobblestones, walking in well-worn dark passages of the caves with uneven lighting. The castles all have steps and cobblestones. There are new interpretations of the “meaning”of the cave paintings. Fertility marks? Hmm. Come look forself. We have excellent guides to recommend.

https://newviewtours.com/traveljournals/france/france

ECUADOR – on the equator, this country is open and beautiful 12 months of the year. The predictable rainy season in January and February is uneven, so we go anyway and find delightful days; welcoming hacienda experiences, walks and hikes in unique ecosystems with the company of well-trained English speaking guides – so special. Hacienda Cusin has hosted New View Tours small groups of friends and families for over twenty years! we are grateful to them for this. We predict you too will feel at home while you find a new view at the same time! This trip adaptable to all activity levels.   https://newviewtours.com/calendar/peaceful-gardens-trails-a-trip-to-ecuador

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS TOUR – A morning flight from Quito via Guayaquil transports you to the once remote  volcanic islands. Some are, yes, populated including hotels and restaurants.  Others are completely uninhabited. To create the lowest impact on the abundant endemic species, please consider a cruise. The boats are carefully regulated to avoid crowds. You will disembark at various unique spots as if to be the first to discover each and every variety of wildlife; bird, reptile, or animal still existing, thriving, relatively undisturbed. We have excellent local contacts. Be in touch so that we can arrange a 3, 4 or 8 day excursion at your activity level. (The cruises can be arranged for families with children 6 years and older)

https://newviewtours.com/traveljournals/equador/galapagos-travels

 PATAGONIA, CHILE – The seasons are the reverse of our own, so a November to February excursion is at the peak of summer and a beautiful time of year. Our trip this year starts in the Fall season. We expect to see the changing colors of the papallacta trees, among other treats. Will the blue calafete berries still be on the bushes? We add on a new view of Tierra del Fuego, thanks to the preparation of our host, Tamara, who lives there. The Torres National Park will be a “must”, now one of 17 spectacular national parks in the southern Andes, thanks to the foresight of the Tomkins Conservation Foundation and the country of Chile. This is a marvelous trip for the intrepid travelers among us. It is important to be able to walk distances comfortably, and be able to make long van trips.

OUR 3 TRIPS – FEBRUARY 2023!

We assembled in February for three excursions: a cruise in the Galápagos Islands on a 16 pax yacht for seven nights; a van transfer to the High Sierras of Ecuador to find “Mountains in the Sun” (which included some rain, too) to stay at the 1602 restored Hacienda Cusin. Here we took a full no-bus day to find tranquility, beauty. We could explore this enclave of world-renowned diversity: the flora and fauna amidst a magnificent collection of art and gardens. Four of us continued to El Refugio lodge in the Intag Cloud Forest, returning to this remote destination with excellent bird watching amidst an emerald ecosystem in a cloudy, warm and wonderful place. We visited the capital city of Quito: a World Heritage site since 1978 considered the most stunning colonial capital city in South America. Staying at comfortable hotels with a variety of restaurant to choose from, we found too many museums for our days. We selected the Alabado Pre Columbian Art Museum, redone and remarkable balance of contemporary presentation in a colonial hacienda displaying preColumbian ceramica from all the South American cultures.

We continued down the continent, changing planes in Santiago, Chile to reach the plains of southern Patagonia, Chile. We met four new travelers with great cheer. Refreshed and ready to go in Punta Arenas, the port city farthest south in Chile. We stopped to explore King penguin colonies, again we saw where condors choose to collect their adolescents in a private estancia preserve. We added a “new view” – a retreat in Tierra del Fuego (Chilean side) our farthest stretch south! Laguna Deseado Lodge, the only one on this large island accessible by ferry only. Our private guide managed our likes and preferences tho winds blew and rains clouded our original itinerary, we did our best to adapt and re arrange.  We next travelled north  to the well-designed yurts at Patagonia Camp. Daily options to hike or drive kept us out and about the Torres del Paine National Park exploring this remarkable, pristine park of glaciers, huge rock formations, and hearty plant life that survives the harsh winter season.

https://newviewtours.com/calendar/patagonia

Posted in Chile, Galapagos, Travel Journals | Comments Off on NVT 2023 Hello Travelers!

Chilean Shoreline

We walked across the Chilean shoreline to the Argentine border in Tierra del Fuego on Lake Deseado ! Guide is Bacho in bright green.

Chilean shoreline at the Argentine border

Chilean shoreline at the Argentine border

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Rabida Island in the Galapagos

Day Three in the morning Mickey Mouse cactus have softer feathery spines ( don’t touch) – galap dove, warbler and oyster catchers on the brick red beach – basically no water.

Rabida Island in the GalapagosRabida Island in the Galapagos

Rabida Island in the Galapagos

Rabida Island in the Galapagos

Rabida Island in the Galapagos

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Galapogos

A second day between Galapagos Islands – hopping o and off North Seymour and South Plazos with frigate birds and blue footed boobies, land iguanas and sea lion colonies – none of them adjusting their behaviors to our presence, but we carefully stayed on trails so as not to disturb – but they simply ignored us!

Galapagos IguanaBlue Footed Boobie

Blue footed boobies nest on the ground. The red footed ones nest in shrubs about a foot off the ground.

Galapagos Wildlife

Galapagos Wildlife

Galapagos

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A New View Message for 2023!

Weaver of the Andes

Hello Travelers & Friends,

What is more fun than heading out on a trip?
….to know that a pod of friends and like-minded travelers will be heading out to enjoy the views with you. We have some fun on our calendar this February as we head out with 3 pods of small groups to the Galapagos Islands, the High Sierras of Ecuador, and then on southward to Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. It has been a true delight to plan these journeys after two years of pandemic hibernation. Thus, we remind you:
A Few of Our Favorite Views &
 When You Might Want To Go Too!

SPAIN
Spring is beautiful in the Northern part of this country in April & May, or choose the Fall season after the summer heat abates. Try out September or October, but we have learned to respect Columbus Day when the country shuts down for serious celebration in the streets! This trip can be adapted to your preferred level of activity: from day hikes to van touring. See a few stories here:
https://newviewtours.com/all/gardens-art-of-spain

South West FRANCE
The Castles and Caves tour is in a beautiful and popular part of the country. Consider April/May or September/ October on the shoulder seasons around when the caves close for the winter. This trip involves walking on cobblestones, through well-worn dark passages, and with some uneven lighting. The castles all have steps and cobblestones and spectacular views! There are new interpretations of the “meaning” of the cave paintings. Fertility marks? Hmm. Come look for yourself with an experienced guide.
https://newviewtours.com/traveljournals/france/france

ECUADOR  
On the equator, this country is open and beautiful 12 months of the year. The predictable rainy season in January and February is uneven, so we go anyway and find delightful days; welcoming hacienda experiences, walks, and hikes in unique ecosystems with the company of well-trained English-speaking guides – so special. Hacienda Cusin has hosted New View Tours small groups of friends and families for over twenty years! We are grateful to them for this. We predict you too will feel at home while you find a new view at the same time!
This trip adapts for all activity levels to enjoy!
https://newviewtours.com/calendar/peaceful-gardens-trails-a-trip-to-ecuador

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
A morning flight from Quito via Guayaquil transports you to the once-remote volcanic islands. Some are, yes, populated including hotels and restaurants.  Others are completely uninhabited. To create the lowest impact on the abundant endemic species, please consider a cruise. The boats are carefully scheduled to avoid crowds. We will suggest our favorites; the boats are booked well in advance. Let us know what time of year works best. The cruise will have you disembark at various unique spots as if to be the first to discover each and every variety of wildlife; bird, reptile, or animal still existing, thriving, relatively undisturbed. We have experienced “boots on the ground to assist. Be in touch so that we can arrange a 3, 4 or 8 day excursion at your activity level. https://newviewtours.com/traveljournals/equador/galapagos-travels

PATAGONIA, CHILE
The seasons are the reverse of our own, so a November to February excursion is at the peak of summer and a beautiful time of year. Our trip this year starts in the Fall season. We expect to see the changing colors of the papallacta trees, among other treats. Will the blue calafete berries still be on the bushes? We add on a new view of Tierra del Fuego, thanks to the preparation of our host, Tamara, who lives there. The Torres National Park will be a “must”, now one of 17 spectacular national parks in the southern Andes, thanks to the foresight of the Tomkins Conservation Foundation and the country of Chile. This is a marvelous trip for the intrepid travelers among us. It is important to be able to walk distances comfortably and be able to make long van trips.
https://newviewtours.com/calendar/patagonia

New Views for Fall 2023: 
The Picos de Europa mountain range offers stunning hikes on the ancient trails of shepherds and pilgrims. Let’s connect to a train excursion from Bilbao to Barcelona!

Castles and Caves of Southern France;
let’s add on days in Bordeaux & Toulouse.

New Views for Winter 2024:
There is a new view of the North Atacama Desert in Chile; let’s start in Santiago, and enjoy Valparaiso on the coast before finding the Atacama Desert – a brand-new view!
Ecuador explore – so many choices: fly Quito to Cuenca; drive between Cotopaxi and Cotacachi volcanoes! Rest and restore at Hacienda Cusin, retreat in the Cloud Forest….

Summer Travel Note: During this naturally busy season, the above trips may work best for you and yours. Because it is busy and often very hot,  we recommend a detailed itinerary with visit times pre-reserved, train tickets pre-purchased, and guides pre-arranged. In short, please let us help you pre-plan carefully.

Thanks So Much To You!
Your support and endorsements from those of you who have traveled with us! Your notes made such a difference! Here are a few of them:
https://newviewtours.com/testimonials
Have a memory of a trip with New View? A favorite picture?
Send it along!

We have been at this for twelve years; subtracting two years lost to the pandemic – it is ten!

Health and Harmony throughout  2023!
Ramelle & Michael
Ramelle1@mac.com
Michael2@me.com

Lascaux IV

Lascaux IV – a new museum offers a complete reproduction 500 meters from the original cave. Lots to learn as theories keep bubbling up and its new technology that makes it possible!

Spanish Plaza built for the Worlds Fair in Seville

Spanish Plaza built for the Worlds Fair in Seville

The Seville Cathedral at night.

The Seville Cathedral at night.

New View Tours Designs Trips with Your Interests in Mind:
Art, Gardens, Writing, Walking, Birding, History
Bring a group, Bring a class, or
Just Friends!
See comments here:
 
Enjoy the chilly days of winter!
Happy Trails,

Ramelle & Michael Pulitzer

Email either of us with comments or questions.
We are delighted to chat!

Ramelle1@mac.com
Michael2@me.com

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An Andean Exploration

Arequipa - 16th c. colonial city

PERU

From 16th century colonial cathedrals
to Inca ruins to home of the condor in the largest canyon in SA

Arequipa, to the Colca Canyon to Puno & Lake Titicaca.
Estimated Land Cost based on 2018 trip $ 2650

Add—on tour to Machu Picchu.

More Info contact: Email Ramelle or Email Michael

Posted in Calendar, Peru | Comments Off on An Andean Exploration

Yoga

Michael Pulitzer teaches a  Gentle Yoga series that includes meditation. The practice draws on the ancient eastern styles of Hatha, Meditation Pranayama, Vinyasa and Yin, and the contemporary teachings of Kripalu, and Restorative postures. These techniques work in a sequence to access each student’s potential for a fully realized experience.

Michael’s classes are for all levels including beginners and those desiring to re-engage their practice.

Join me to have fun, build awareness, energy, and feel good for a meditation on the breath and on sensation. Classes are available on Zoom by emailing me at Michael2@me.com for the link.

Michael is a 500-hour certified yoga and meditation instructor through Kripalu Center for Yoga. He also holds a certificate in Positive Psychology and Dynamic Gentle Yoga. He began his inquiry and yoga practice in 2000 while working in television broadcasting.

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Azores Islands – May 2023

The Azores

A trip to the Azores offers a perfect balance of island lifestyle and European culture amidst beautiful mountains, deep lakes formed by volcanoes, tropical forests, and a variety of ports, beaches, scenic coastlines. Sao Miguel Island is the largest of 9 in the archipelago 900 miles off the coast of Portugal. Punto Delgada, the capital, is a city paved in black volcanic stones and white marble tiles imported from the mainland. Here, the largest port accommodates cruise ships that stop over regularly, their passengers pouring into the city’s restaurants, shops. the military museum situated in the 1522 fort, a formidable stone fortress, the Forte de Sao Bras.

We visited in “winter” of February 2020 just as the ships were canceled, the streets empty of the usual lunchtime wave of shoppers. Camellias bloomed in coiffed gardens, light rain passed through followed by beautiful skies. Island life agreed with us. It has taken until for direct flights to resume, for the post-pandemic world to reopen.

Touring the Azores

Take a 4×4 Jeep to explore the views from the rim of the volcanoes!

Distinctive black stone-faced buildings line every street, each paved in different patterns. Can’t remember which way to go? which street to turn down? Where to find the name? Look down to the tile!

The talent for cultivating gardens is ubiquitous. Pineapples are grown here. The only tea plantation in Europe is thriving here. We attended the camellia festival, too early for the azaleas of March and April. Highways lined with leafless stick hedges carefully manicured awaiting May and June blooms of hydrangeas.

Touring the Azores

C Amelia Festival – abundance across from our hotel with lots of crafts for sale too!

For a day in the city, we found a one-hour bus tour that circumnavigated the city. Next, we stopped at a small but over-stocked museum created by Carlos Machado that houses his collection of sea mammals, plant life, unique land animals, and a wide assortment of diverse flora and fauna from these remote islands – the naturalist of his time. If we had one more ounce of energy, we might have seen the military museum situated in the 1522 fort, a formidable stone fortress on the waterfront, the Forte de Sao Bras.

Touring the Azores

Near Ribiera Grande, the north coast, a stunning modern hotel with private swim pools.

Volcanoes recently formed these islands, geologically speaking. The mountains feature slim rims, deep walls to bowl-shaped lakes. It is a fascinating landscape of lush vegetation around deep blue waters. Therapeutic hot waters spring up from the core of the earth, the heart of a volcano; stained by iron to a brown color is considered healing. Everyone swims in the muddy looking pure stuff. At the deco style Terra Nostra Hotel, find a very large pool gushing with steaming water all year long, perfect on a rainy afternoon.

Touring the Azores

Chefs are amazing – this is Asian fusion fare!

Each city on the island is new discovery. Riviera Grande, only 20 minutes from the capital, the 2nd largest city, is known for its historic center and northern beaches where windsurfing is a favorite. The town is at the gateway to the crater lake, Lagoa do Fogo, one of 5 on this island.

Hiking is a joy. Maps along the way clearly mark the distances and details of changing elevation. Many trails are wide enough to be accessible by 4-wheel drive jeeps. Local guides cheerfully escort!

Touring the Azores

Another church

Restaurants are excellent. The local version of mussels is on every menu. Order “cozido” a day in advance. The chef will use a large metal pot with a strong handle. Layers of pork or fish and sausage – your choice – steam in beds of root vegetables, beet greens, potatoes, and cabbage. The whole pot is submerged in the naturally streaming ashes of the volcano floor to cook through the day.

Touring the Azores

Typical black volcanic stone carved in Portuguese style with plaster walls

Known as the Hawaii of Europe, the Azores are 900 miles from the colonial capital of Lisbon, on the same latitude with Bermuda and the same time zone as Iceland – four hours change from the east coast. A lush paradise of islands, mountains, and pastures, the best times to visit are March through October. Winter months can be windy and rainy, but still beautiful. Summer months are crowded as the European visitors flock to these islands as a relief from the heat.

We suggest a 7-night tour: 2 in Punta Delgada; 2 in Ribiera Grande and 3 nights or more in Furnas at the luxurious deco hotel, Terra Nostra Garden Hotel or equivalent.

With direct flights from Boston, New York, and in-season, Providence RI, direct flights make this a welcome tropical destination.

Touring the Azores

Touring the Azores

Touring the Azores

Typical view of the ocean – looking east in the late afternoon – these skies change all day

Touring the Azores

A nice little rainbow forming – a raincoat is a good idea – but rarely needed for long

Touring the Azores

Mountains to the sea! There are many happy sea creatures in these deep waters

Touring the Azores

The enormous bowl of a volcano is settled with a town, Furnas in its center

Touring the Azores

The thermal pools burst through the ground to share steam and gasses and hot waters

Touring the Azores

This is where pots are buried to cook “cozido” layers of food. Each circle claimed by a different restaurant

Touring the Azores

Ahh 8 hours later

Touring the Azores

These are mussels here cooked with lots of garlic

Touring the Azores

Farming the same way still. Milk and beef from the islands is extraordinary. Wheat is brought in by boat for local bread makers. Pineapples sent back on the same boats.

Touring the Azores

Steep walls of the mountains look straight down to the Sulphur waters.

Touring the Azores

Cultivated Stream

Touring the Azores

Touring the Azores

Azaleas blooming early in one of the many gardens throughout the islands

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